Fashion, as commonly perceived, represents a realm of styles. What is trending? What has fallen out of favor? Who is currently in vogue?
However, for fledgling designers, the genuine quest is for authenticity, remarked Mary Ruppert-Stroescu, an associate professor and chair of fashion design at the Sam Fox School of Design & Visual Arts at Washington University in St. Louis.
“Designers have consistently aimed to produce unique aesthetics,” Ruppert-Stroescu commented. “Yet, fashion is increasingly becoming personal. Nowadays, emerging designers are delving even further, tapping into their identities, heritage, cultures, and spirituality. It centers on individual expression and establishing connections on a personal level.”
On April 26, the Sam Fox School will unveil “Voilà,” its 96th Annual Fashion Design Show, in WashU’s historic Holmes Lounge. This event, one of the nation’s oldest, will showcase numerous models parading diverse outfits, particularly emphasizing capstone collections from graduating fashion design students.
“Fashion is about igniting desire,” Ruppert-Stroescu stated. “Yet to yearn for something, there must be a meaningful connection. It stems from instinct and the unexpected joy when form aligns with emotion.”
On the runway
“Voilà’s” introductory scene, “Emerge,” showcases the inaugural original creation by an Introduction to Fashion Design student at WashU. “These denim jackets were crafted using materials sourced from the St. Louis manufacturer Carr Textiles,” Ruppert-Stroescu explained, “and exemplify each designer’s newly discovered voice in fashion.”
The ensuing scene, “Strata,” transforms fabric into storytelling with original digital prints centered on the theme “Culture: my social group,” fashioned into shirts and shorts. In “Imprévu,” designers unveil a series of avant-garde styles developed as part of an experimental design course led by lecturer Laura Desch.
The show will progress with ensembles created for the course “Textile Technology for Health and Well-Being,” customizing clothing to cater to clients with specific health issues. “Each student interviewed five individuals, evaluated data, established design criteria, produced prototypes, and then collaborated with a fit model,” Ruppert-Stroescu noted. “It’s a genuine fusion of fashion, functionality, and user-centered design.”
Scenes titled “Muse,” “Equinox,” and “Crescendo” signify a transition to the senior BFA capstone collections. Grounded in months of research, each designer utilizes a distinctive visual language and demonstrates a rigorous approach to research, development, ideation, and prototyping. Senior lecturer Jennifer Ingram guided the designers throughout the process of transforming their sketches into tangible objects.
Indigo Amunategui’s collection “Venus in Chrome” posits that beauty standards are not spontaneous; they are deliberately crafted, much like cars or buildings. “Has the ideal ever been attainable? Not really,” Amunategui expressed in her designer’s statement. “Venus in Chrome,” featuring its mechanical shapes and lustrous surfaces, “offers a semi-ironic remedy to the artificial beauty norms we love to criticize.”
Combining enhanced pastel hues, flowing forms, and botanical references, Emily Carlin’s spring-inspired collection “Reverie” radiates warmth, brightness, and unabashed happiness. “‘Reverie’ draws from beauty and romanticism, inspired by my deep appreciation for nature, historical art, and femininity,” Carlin elaborated. “This collection encapsulates positive feelings, achievable perfection, and moments of human connection.”
Brooke Cowan’s “DayMoon” caters to “the eclectic spirit, fulfilling a quest for exquisite, unique items that permit clients to reconnect with their clothing and its origins.” Amidst mass production, “DayMoon,” enriched with premium materials, clean lines, custom metal accents, and handmade leather details, celebrates “the artistry behind garments, prioritizing the joy sparked through materials and craftsmanship.”
“Open Heart,” crafted by Maggie Maichel, strives to penetrate the facades that frequently obscure our genuine selves, “expressing the truth that genuine strength often arises from vulnerability.” Advocating sustainability through natural fibers and materials, these pieces are “engineered for durability, ensuring they become timeless staples in any wardrobe.”
Integrating Vietnamese and Western influences, Vivian Nguyen’s “Intertwined” draws inspiration from the Red String of Fate, a belief prevalent in East Asia signifying the importance of relationships. “As a child, my mother frequently donned traditional Vietnamese outfits (ao dai) embellished with intricate embroidery,” Nguyen reminisced. With its vivid brocades and string manipulations, “Intertwined” symbolizes a “representation of connection.”
Julia Yuan’s striking “Infinity” collection melds flowing silhouettes, cinched waists, and flared skirts with classical Chinese details, encompassing water sleeves, mandarin collars, and elaborate embroidery. The goal, Yuan articulated, is to “investigate the essence of our souls, our past lives, and future existences, along with the journeys we must undertake throughout life.”
Sponsors and accolades
The Fashion Design Show is organized by Ruppert-Stroescu and produced through her “Fashion Promotion and Exhibition” course. All garments showcased were crafted on Baby Lock sewing machines, produced by Tacony Corp. based in St. Louis, which is also a generous sponsor of this event.
Mother Model Management provided sponsorship for the show’s models. Other sponsors encompass the Saint Louis Fashion Fund, Dominic Michael Salon, Hurley Co. Salon, and Lux & Nix.
The evening will also highlight several departmental honors, including:
- The Dominic Michael Silver Scissors Designer of the Year Award. Sponsored by Dominic Michael Salon for over twenty years, this accolade is awarded to the senior fashion design student exhibiting remarkable creativity and outstanding skill in fashion design concept and execution.
- The Most Marketable Collection, which honors a senior fashion design student whose collection is recognized as the most salable. Post-show, all six senior collections will be on display at Neiman Marcus Frontenac.
- The Stars Design Group Award, which provides mentorship and studio space within the Couture Culture incubator for a student whose collection shows significant business potential.
- The Susan Sanders Block Silver Ripper Award, endowed by alumna Susan Sanders Block, is conferred upon the sophomore or junior fashion design student who has exhibited the greatest progress.
- The Riverbend Textiles Sustainable Design Leadership Award, which acknowledges outstanding consideration and practice towards sustainable fashion design.
- The Galore Atelier Excellence in Textile Surface Design Award for the textile design exemplifying excellence in craft, aesthetics, and innovation. Every student is eligible for this award.
- The Fashion Citizenship Award, sponsored by Ruppert-Stroescu, awarded to an exceptional second-year fashion design major who exemplifies commendable citizenship and community involvement.
Tickets
The 96th Annual Washington University Fashion Design Show will commence at 7 p.m. on Saturday, April 26, in WashU’s Holmes Lounge, situated in Ridgley Hall. The doors will open at 6:30 p.m. A meet-and-greet with the designers will promptly follow the show, taking place in Holmes Lounge.
All general admission tickets are reserved. To register for the fashion show livestream, please visit samfoxschool.washu.edu.
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